About Catalytic Converters

Information on Universal Catalytic Converters

Global Converters sells a complete line of Universal Replacement Catalytic Converters. Universal Converters are simply the Catalytic Converter less the pre-bent piping used in Direct Fit applications. The use of universal converter replacements require cutting, welding and fabricating. Because placement is critical in OBDII applications (1997 and later year vehicles) installation is recommended by experienced professional installers only. Please call Global Converters at 1-888-225-8698 to place an order for any universal converter.

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Direct Fit Catalytic Converters

Global Converters recommends OBDII By Design Direct Fit Catalytic Converters. Our Direct Fit converters are produced to the highest standards in the aftermarket industry. These Converters are OBDII By Design, application specific designed for your vehicle. They are designed to fit exactly like the Original Equipment unit with little to no cutting or fabrication required. In most cases our Direct Fit Converters are 100% Stainless Steel including all of the pre-bent piping.

Global Direct Fit Converters come with all necessary gaskets. In some cases common clamps and nut and bolt hardware may be needed which is locally available at most auto parts and hardware stores. The Limited Lifetime Warranty Registration card is also included with all new Converters.

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Readiness Drive Cycle Test

After all repairs have been made, any trouble codes have been erased and the MIL has been turned off, you will need to perform a Readiness Drive Cycle Test before any emissions tests can be properly done. OBD II systems conduct self-diagnostic system tests under certain conditions or enabling criteria, as listed below.

  • Elapsed time since vehicle engine start up
  • Engine temperature
  • Throttle position
  • Engine speed
  • Vehicle speed

Most of the various systems tests, conducted by the different monitors, are only done after the engine has reached normal operating temperature.

The computer runs three types of tests:

  • Passive Tests -- These are the tests that monitor a system or component without affecting its operation.
  • Active Tests -- Where the computer has the monitor produce a test signal so that it’s response can be checked against stored information.
  • Intrusive Tests -- Where the computer performs system checks that directly affect vehicle performance and emissions.

After a passive test is run and a failure is detected, the computer then performs an active test procedure on the system. If, after the active test, another failure is detected the computer will run an intrusive test. If after the intrusive test another failure is confirmed, the computer may not, at this time, store a trouble code and/or illuminate the MIL until after this same failure occurs after two consecutive test series are completed. Because of this characteristic, it is suggested that you perform the following I/M.

Readiness Drive Cycle Test TWICE to be sure that all sub-systems have been checked, flags are set and all I/M monitors are in the ready condition. It is important that these benchmarks or messages the OBD II system uses indicate that all emission monitors have been run before the vehicle is released to the consumer or goes through an I/M 240 test.

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I/M Readiness Drive Cycle Test Procedure

  • Vehicle should be started with the engine cold.
  • Let vehicle idle until the engine is at normal operating temperature (the engine coolant temperature sensor should read 180° F of higher). Generally 5 to 10 minutes is sufficient depending on outside ambient temperature.
  • Put vehicle in gear (with brake applied) and idle for no less than 45 seconds.
  • Accelerate to 45 MPH with no more than ¼ throttle and maintain speed for a full 10 seconds.
  • Decelerate to 35-38 MPH and maintain a steady throttle and speed for 1 minute.
  • Decelerate to 25 MPH and then operate between 25 MPH and 40 MPH for 4 minutes. DO NOT operate at more than ¾ throttle for this test segment.
  • Decelerate and idle engine for 10 seconds.
  • Accelerate gently to 55 MPH using NO MORE than ½ throttle, maintain speed for a full 10 seconds.
  • Continue driving at 40 MPH – 55 MPH, Use a steady throttle pressure and maintain speed for a full 2 minutes.
  • Return to your shop and shut the vehicle off.
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It is recommended a test be conducted a second time

If time permits, it is in your best interest to run the cycle again after the vehicle has COOLED down. Doing this second Readiness Drive Cycle Test should insure that all problems have been repaired, Flags have been set, all monitors are in the ready condition, the MIL will remain out, and the vehicle is ready to pass an I/M 240 test.

If the MIL comes back on during Drive Cycle Test 1 or 2, then further repairs are most likely needed or you did not perform the Drive Cycle Test properly. It is better that you discover this before you return the vehicle to the customer allowing you to complete the needed repairs.

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Catalytic Converter Conversion Table

Cubic Inch to Liter:
1 Cubic Inch = .01639 liter
Example: 351 x .01639 = 5.8L (5.75289)

Liter to Cubic Inch:
1 Liter = 61.02 cubic inches
Example: 5.8(5.75289) x 61.02 = 351 cubic inches

Liter
1.0
1.3
1.4
1.5
1.6
1.7
1.8
1.9
2.0
2.2
2.3
2.5
2.6
2.7
2.8
2.9
3.0
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
3.7
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.6
4.9
5.0
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.7
5.8
5.9
6.0
6.4
6.6
6.8
7.0
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.5
7.7
8.0
8.2
Cubic Inch
61
79
85
92
98
104
105, 110, 112
116
122
134, 135
140
150, 151, 153
156, 159
164, 165
171, 173
177
183
189
195
200
207, 208
214
225
229, 231
239
241
250, 252
255, 258
261, 267
283
300, 301
302, 305, 307
318
323
329
350
351
360
368
390
400, 403
415
427
440
444
454
455
470
488
500
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List of Abbreviations

A.I.R.
AT
AWD
BBL
C.A.R.B.
Carb
CFI
CID
CA/CALIF
CO
Cyl.
DTC
EEC
ECM
EFC
EFI
EFN
EGR
EHC
EPA
EXC.
FWD
HC
H.O.
I.D.
IM
INJ
MFI
MIL
MT
NA
NOX
NR
O.B.D.
O.D.
OXD
PPM
RWD
SAE
SFI
TBI
TPI
TWC
TWC/OC
2 WD
4 WD
Wheel Base
Air Injection Reactor
Automatic Transmission
All Wheel Drive
Barrel
California Air Resources Board
Carburetor
Central Fuel Injection
Cubic Inch Displacement
California Air Resources Board
Carbon Monoxide
Cylinder
Diagnostic Trouble Code
Electronic Engine Control
Electronic Control Module
Engine Family Code
Electronic Fuel Injection
Engine Family Number
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Electronic Heated Converter
Environment Protection Agency
Except
Front Wheel Drive
Hydrocarbon
High Output
Inside Diameter
Inspection Maintenance
Injection
Multiport Fuel Injection
Malfunction Indicator Light
Manual Transmission
Not Available
Oxides of Nitrogen
Not Required
On Board Diagnostic
Outside Diameter
2 Way Converter (oxidation converter)
Parts per Million
Rear Wheel Drive
Society of Automotive Engineers
Sequential Fuel Injection
Throttle Body Injection
Tuned Port Injection
3 Way Converter
3 Way with Air Converter
2 Wheel Drive
4 Wheel Drive
To measure the wheel base it is from the center of the front hub cap to the rear of the center of the hub cap (Inches)
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Malfunctioning and Failed Oxygen Sensors

Oxygen sensors can fail when the sensor’s ceramic element is exposed to certain types of silicone compounds or when an oil-burning engine leads to the sensor becoming oil-fouled. Also, a small amount tetra-ethyl lead in the gasoline can kill an oxygen sensor. Over-the-counter fuel additives, which are not “oxygen sensor safe”, can also kill an oxygen sensor.

Failures can occur either: 1) instantaneously at the time the contaminant contacts the oxygen sensor, causing a dead sensor, or 2) gradually over a period of time. Gradual deterioration results in a “slow” sensor which does not react as quickly as it should, causing the catalytic converter to perform less efficiently. This can lead to premature failure of the catalytic converter.

“Slow” oxygen sensors can cause a drop in fuel economy of 10-15% and cause excessive exhaust emissions and poor drivability. Unfortunately, the symptoms of a “slow” oxygen sensor are not always obvious to the vehicle owner, unless the vehicle fails an emissions test, a decline in fuel economy is noticed, or drivability problems occur.

A “dead” sensor can be detected with a relatively inexpensive digital volt-ohmmeter. A “slow” sensor can only be diagnosed by using a digital oscilloscope or scope meter. Most installers will probably not be able to spot an oxygen sensor problem until it is too late, and the catalytic converter is already well on its way to failure.

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Preventive Maintenance for Catalytic Converters

One-wire and two-wire “unheated” type oxygen sensors should be check or replaced ever 30,000 to 50,000 miles. These sensors rely solely on hot exhaust gas to heat up to operating temperature, and are designed to allow a large volume of exhaust gas to make contact with the active ceramic element. These sensors are exposed to contamination, especially the “wide-slot” varieties found on Chrysler, Ford and General Motors vehicles.

“Heated” type oxygen sensors have a built-in heater which heats the sensors. Much less exhaust gas needs to contact the ceramic element, making these sensors less prone to contamination.

“Heated” type sensors can also be located further downstream, (closer to the catalytic converter), which increases their life expectancy. “Heated” type oxygen sensors should be checked or replaced every 60,000 to 100,000 miles.

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